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Part III: Milford Sound, the 8th Wonder

By Very Long Weekend

February 22^nd, 2017

The road to milford sound

You may have already heard of Milford Sound, you've likely seen photos of its recognizable peaks. Milford Sound lies at the heart of the South Island's Fiordlands National Park, about 5 hours drive west of Queenstown. Julie and I couldn't wait to see this place, and we weren't disappointed.

We decided to take our time and make the most of this magical place so we left early in the morning, planning to spend one night in Milford Sound and have the next day to explore the sound (a.k.a. fiord) itself. On the drive over we stopped to take in the views, including Mirror Lakes...which weren't really lakes but more like ponds? In any case, the scenery was mind blowing, things were looking promising.

Approaching Milford Sound. Mount Christina in the background

hiking 'the divide'

About an hour from Milford Sound is a 3 hour hike to Key Summit, a peak that stands at 3,000ft (918m). It's less about the hike (though it is pretty cool) and more about the views at the top. Key Summit is located in such a way that every peak around it is taller, around the full 360-degrees.

These peaks are some of the most dramatic in the country, many of which feature large glaciers and remain above the snow line even in the summer, in particular: Mount Christina 8,116ft (2474m), Mount Crosscut 7,424ft (2263m), Mt Lyttle 6,230ft (1899m) and the lake left behind by their glacier, Lake Marian at 2,280ft (695m).

Key Summit also has a nature conservancy trail around its rim, which is obviously worth it to catch more views, but also to see just how different the vegetation, wildlife and even the colors are in this part of New Zealand. We spent about as long walking around the summit as it took us to hike up to the top.

L to R: Mount Christina, Mount Crosscut, Mt Lyttle hiding behind a cloud

L to R: Mount Christina, Mount Crosscut, Mt Lyttle and Lake Marian in the valley above the tree line

'the chasm' waterfall

After our hike, we went to check out The Chasm. We actually had no idea what to expect here, because the trail map offered no description of what this 'chasm' was. I thought it was just an opening in the mountains allowing for more views of the lush green valley below. Wrong.

The Chasm is a huge rapid that has powered its way through the rocks to create a deep, narrow, and jagged canyon. But before you even see The Chasm, you'll hear it. Forget babbling brooks, this is a full on, deafening roar. The power of this water as you cross the bridge right above it is awe-inspiring.

In the photos I tried to capture the cut that the water has carved into the rock, but the sound is half the experience. I'll try to post a video soon.

Top down view of The Chasm, downstream is bottom to top of the photo

The view from the hike to and from The Chasm

from sunset...

And then we drove the rest of the way to Milford Sound, in time for a sunset on the sound at low tide. Things were looking good for tomorrow's boat ride on the sound.

We spent the night at Milford Sound Lodge, the only commercial accommodation available. February is peak summer season for this part of the world, so we were left with a bunk bed in a dorm room with 6 other people. So far, not so bad...except one of those 6 people had the most outrageous snore. As in, full on tractor engine at full power. Lesson learned: if you want to sleep, book 6 months in advance and get a private room.

...to sunrise

Ultimately, it didn't matter. By the time we woke up (bright and early thanks to our sonorous friend) we jumped out of bed, to catch the first rays of sun on the sound. We were the first ones there, and we won't soon forget how unbelievable a sight this was - especially one to have for ourselves.

After a quick breakfast (bacon and egg rolls, obviously) we headed to Milford Sound's boat terminal to wait for our boat for the day.

Looking West from the center of Milford Sound

Our Southern Discoveries boat at the terminal

out on the sound

Up until this point, we had already been treated to some of the world's most unique, breathtaking sights. But once out on the water, and up close to the peaks around you (rising nearly 6,500ft / 2,000m) above the water, nothing could have prepared us for the jaw-dropping views.

I'll let the photos do the talking here...

Mitre Peak (left) and snowcapped Mt Pembroke in the background. Mt Pembroke is the tallest in Milford Sound at 6,607ft (2,014m)

Trees are able to grow even on the steepest cliffs, thanks to a thick layer of moss on the rocks that their roots can bind to

Getting up close with the various rock layers near the water and the tree rooting systems

Seals! This rock's position is exposed to wind which means seals can cool down in the summer. Head held high means "stay off my rock"

THIRSTY?

As we neared a small waterfall (relatively speaking here), our skipper directed the bow of the ship as close to the rock wall as possible. Meanwhile, one of the crew came out with two trays of empty glasses and set them on the edge of the bow to collect the water coming from the falls.

Within a few seconds, we had 50 glasses full of ice cold water, ready to drink from the source. Not to mention a pretty unique view from directly beneath the cliff face.

Drinking the water from Bridal Veil fall

The Tasman Sea ahead of us. Keep going this way for 800 miles and you're in 'Tassie

returning, with some company

By the time we reached the end of the sound, we were in the Tasman Sea, the body of water separating New Zealand and Australia. Keep going West for about 800 miles and you'd end up in Tasmania.

This was our turnaround point. But on our return journey we had a company. In a surprise twist to make this day even more unforgettable, several pods of bottlenose dolphins decided to chase our boat and show us their skills. Every single person on the boat, skipper and crew included, was ooo-ing and aaa-ing as the dolphins kept doubling back on our boat and jumping completely out of the water. We were told this was a rare occasion, since the dolphins are habituated to the frequent boat traffic on the sound, but every now and again they come out to play. Thanks, dolphins.

And alongside the aerial display from our marine mammal friends, the views weren't too shabby either.

Special convoy escort on our way back into the sound

SHOWERING IN STIRLING FALLS

Further back into the sound, we headed to Stirling Falls. These aren't the most powerful falls on the sound (that title goes to Bowen Falls, see below), but they're positioned such that the bow of a boat (even one as big as ours) is able to actually fit directly beneath the water surging from the cliff above.

You might be thinking that this would make everyone on the boat soaked. You'd be right.

After a quick warning from the skipper to put any valuables out of the way (luckily our iPhone 7's are water resistant), we cruised underneath the waterfall and took a brief shower.

Inside Stirling Falls, Julie's improvised waterproof helmet: a backpack cover (she can't see what she's shooting)

Just a tad damp, my iPhone 7 Plus lens was so wet it had trouble focusing

Below the surface

Around lunch time, having had a chance to dry in the sun from our impromptu shower, we stopped at the underwater marine observatory. This is a small platform, latched to the edge of one the fiord's mountain faces. Below the platform is a viewing deck that sits about 10m (32ft) underwater.

It's worth remembering that the terrain below the water is very similar to that above it, since the glacier that carved this fiord dug its way much further down than the eye can see from the surface of the water. So, on one side of the viewing deck is the mountain face, whilst the open water on the other side lets you see some of the underwater organisms that are native to this place.

The most striking to see in person was the black coral. Except black coral is actually white. 🤔

Turns out the skeleton of black coral is black, whilst the organisms (bacteria) living on it are what give it the white color (they also look like very thin tree branches).

20,000 leagues under the sea...or in this case 10m which is 0.00179986 Leagues according to Google...

Starfish clinging on to the plexi window

THE GRAND FINALE

Our last stop on the way back to the dock was Milford Sound's largest waterfall: Bowen Falls. This 530ft (162m) fall pumps an insane amount of water every minute. And we saw it when it was relatively calm - its volume quadruples in heavy rainfall (frequent in this part of the South Island).

Bowen Falls also serve as an essential part of Milford Sound's ecosystem, since they provide the town's entire supply of water and power.

Bowen Falls, named after Lady Diamantina Bowen (wife of the first governor of Queensland, Australia)

Driving home

And that was it. We got back in the car and enjoyed the majestic views whilst sitting in traffic on the way home. Julie and I replayed the magic of the last 24 hours, and realized how lucky we are to have seen such a special, special place.