New Zealand

Part I: Kia Ora!

By Very Long Weekend

February 7^th, 2017

New Zealand, the south island

We decided to altogether skip the North Island of NZ and flew straight into Christchurch from Sydney (pro tip: if you're flying with a bike, don't fly with Emirates). We weren't staying in Christchurch long, we picked up our car there and only spent one night.

We walked around and witnessed first-hand the devastation of the last few earthquakes, damage from the largest quake in 2011 was still present. Locals seemed very positive about the outlook, and Christchurch has plenty of cool spots to eat and grab a beer...most notable is an area resembling SF's Hayes Valley 'Proxy' area (check out Re:Start).

This is where we began our counter-clockwise loop of the South Island.

Earthquake damage to a building just off Cathedral Square

Christchurch Cathedral, this building's fate is still uncertain

CHRISTCHURCH ➖ Kaikoura

Kaikoura is North East of Christchurch and was the town hit most recently by a quake. This meant the roads were destroyed, but nonetheless beautiful to drive. We had a lot of car troubles so spent most of our time either sitting in the car or busy planning an exchange for a new one. Which we did. Thankfully.

Out with the Mitsubishi Outlander, in with the Subaru Forester! Next: Wine Country.

Kaikoura's coastline, this is the view from just behind our hotel

kAIKOURA ➖ bLENHEIM (WINE COUNTRY!)

Blenheim is yet further North of Kaikoura. Due to ongoing road repairs the route normally taking about 1.5 hours is closed, so we had to drive the long way round - about 6.5hrs to Blenheim.

At this point we've built a solid impression of NZ's roads: it's not a very vast network, but every single road you take will reward you with the most incredible views. Think Swiss Alps with some Northern California coastline mixed in. Also: a shitload of RV's.

We spent a couple of days in Blenheim, our AirBnB was situated on an airfield (literally on the airfield). So I took a flight lesson at Marlborough Aero Club. My flight instructor Tom let me sit in the Captain's chair, which I think he might still regret now after my bumpy take off.

Blenheim also happens to be in the heart of Marlborough, New Zealand's Wine Country and home to some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Julie was our planner for this trip, she also happens to be a Sauvignon Blanc addict, so you can see where the idea to stay in Blenheim came from.

Mid-flight. At this point I got the hang of it. I think.

tHE QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

The next day we drove to a small jetty in the Marlborough Sounds. From there, a small boat taxi took us to a particularly secluded section of the Queen Charlotte Track (a network of trails that span nearly 50 miles, hiking and mountain biking permitted, with camping spots along the way), where we were going to hike back to the jetty over about 5 hours.

It was a damp and gray day but we enjoyed every minute, though I did spend most of the walk wishing I was on a mountain bike. The views of the many layers of hills that form the Marlborough Sounds were stunning.

Views over the Marlborough Sounds from the Queen Charlotte Track

Blenheim ➖ ABEL TASMAN (SEA KAYAKS!)

After wine country, we headed in the direction of the Abel Tasman National Park. We chose to spend a few days here so that I could ride a famous route called Tasman's Great Taste Trail in a day, and also to give ourselves plenty of time to explore the National Park and its surrounding areas.

We spent our Sea Kayak day stopping in small coves, picking mussels straight off the rocks around the coves and boiling them in sea water on the beach. The weather was stunning, and the water was of the clearest, deepest blue. We spotted a few sting rays in the shallows too though the GoPro I kept sticking in the water failed to capture any.

Spray skirts and life jackets are the height of fashion

Kayaks up on the trailer ready to get to the beach

Along one of the many beaches we stopped at

You'd be forgiven for thinking this is a beach on the Indian Ocean

GOLDEN BAY & WHARARIKI BEACH

At the very Northwestern tip of the South Island, you'll find Golden Bay. The drive there from Riwaka - near Nelson, where we're staying - is over a steep and windy mountain pass. On the way there, you'll find Te Waikoropupu Springs Scenic Reserve (also known as Pupu Springs ... hardly a challenging name for childish puns, we excelled at these on the drive over).

This is NZ's largest freshwater spring (look up how many brands of mineral water come from NZ and you'll understand). The water is unbelievably clear. Photos don't do it justice since the reflecting light takes away from the clarity. In some areas it really looks like a pane of glass floating above a riverbed. Stunning, and worth the detour.

After a bite to eat at the nearby and very famous 'Mussel Inn' (get the bacon burger - trust me), we arrived in Golden Bay. I took out the drone for a short flight around the hills and the shores of the bay, to many puzzled looks from the local fishermen.

After catching the views on the Golden Bay side, we took another detour on a gravel road for about 10 miles, to a beach on the outer Western part of the Golden Bay peninsula called Wharariki Beach. Due to the difficulty of access, this place feels incredibly remote once you're there - and it's not overcrowded like many other 'sunset beaches' are. Before you get to the beach itself, you have to cross a sheep farm going up a hill and back down the other side. The views as you crest the climb and approach the beach are unbelievable. Put this on your bucket list, it's an absolute must-see.

We walked the length of the beach stopping every few feet to take yet more photos. The tide was coming in at a furious pace, but offered some nice swell for our captures. After walking the length of the beach and back again, we made our way back to the car and home.